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Kweichow Moutai: China’s ‘national schnapps’ on the rise

Baijiu is the most popular alcoholic drink in China and Moutai the most famous brand, with a similar status to vodka in Russia or tequila in Mexico. Its origins go back over 2,000 years to the time of Emperor Wu of Han. These days, the national drink is frequently served at official state banquets and is used as the official state gift. Its protected source is the village of Maotai in the Guizhou province on the banks of the Chishui, the Red River. These days, more than 30,000 tons of the 53 percent alcohol Moutai are produced. In cooperation with Camus, a limited edition was launched as an homage to the greatest poets: after Li Bai in 2013, Du Fu followed in 2018. The elegant bottle showing a painting of a poem is made from the finest porcelain.

Traditional methods are used for the distillation of regional raw materials: organic sorghum and wheat and the best water. Fermentation takes place at high temperatures. During the production process, which takes a year, fresh grain is added twice to the boilers, then several boiling and fermentation processes take place. Every batch of the distillate is separated according to age, production cycle and aroma. It then matures slowly in terracotta containers and, during the storage period of at least five years, develops a fine soya aroma. Master blenders make sure that the characteristic, full flavour is preserved. The secret lies in the humid climate, the water from the Chishui, as well as in the distillation technique and maturing period.

At the World Spirits Award, there was double gold for Kweichou Moutai Du Fu Edition.

Stiegenhaushof – A remarkable distillery

Johann Fankhauser, the great-grandfather of the present-day farm owner Martin, was a “Jack of all trades”. In addition to being the mayor and looking after the farm and animals, he also found time to build staircases for his neighbours – hence the name “Stiegenhäuserhof” (staircase farm). In those days, it wasn’t just apples, pears and damsons from the garden that were distilled, but also masterwort from the alpine pastures of the Ahorn area. Martin Fankhauser was a dairy farmer until 2005, who also kept sheep and chickens. After taking a distillation course, he produced his first Williams brandy and won silver in provincial competitions. That was the start of his distillation career: these days over 30 brandies and liqueurs from regional fruits are distilled in his modern licensed distillery.

As a real full-time farmer in the Zillertal Valley, Martin creates his brandies to perfection with passion and skill, and since March 2010 he also holds the title of ‘brandy sommelier’. In 2012 the cowshed was converted into a public-access distillery, with lots of room for tasting sessions, and a view into the sheep shed – after all, the master distiller is also an award-winning sheep farmer and has been breeding Tyrolean mountain sheep since 1996. Kathrin Fankhauser, mother and farmer with heart and soul, devotes herself to Zillertal Valley traditions on the farm, in the distillery and in the kitchen. Her specialities are the sweet liqueurs. “My grandmother took a lot of time to show us all about the preparation of the berries. We used to love the jams and jellies from cowberries, cranberries or red elder. This is how my passion for liqueurs came about, as they are full of fruity flavours down to the last drop.”

In everyday life, three generations live together in the traditional way – naturally and authentically. And this “authenticity” runs through the whole farm. The trademark of the products is the perfect mixture of tradition, region and passion. “Everything which is perfect in the eye or feelings of the beholder, is sexy. Why shouldn’t that also apply for brandies and liqueurs? Our schnapps is a real experience – really sexy. The tastes of the liqueurs capture the sweetness of life – really sweet.”

At the World Spirits Award, the Stiegenhaushof made a very strong showing: as a World Class Distillery 2014 with the title of “Distillery of the Year SILVER 2014”. The Yellow Williams Pear (Spirit of the Year 2014 & World Spirits Award 2014) and Red Williams Pear won double gold. There was gold for Muscat Grape, Fruit Schnapps Cuvée and Damson, and silver for Sloe.

Antonino Riggio - The Wonderful World of Plants

Antonino Riggio founded his company only in 2005; the business grew out of an extensive passion for lupins. The plant with its large, colourful flowers grows wild in Central Europe and elsewhere in the world, and they make a favourite meal for bees. Gardeners employ lupins to improve the soil, cattle farmers know them to be valuable fodder plants. The cultivated species are referred to as sweet lupins; they contain fewer alkaloids than their wild counterparts. The seeds, which contain almost 50% protein, would seem to provide a successful alternative to soy. Clinical studies have shown other positive medicinal effects; substances derived from lupins can protect cells and counteract cancer, as well as help control cholesterol levels.

Plant amateur Riggio followed this up with another innovative idea in 2006. He developed a bitter named "Ginseno", processed from ginseng, aromatic herbs and medicinal plants. Ginseno is available in different flavours; Naturale, Amabile, Alla Menta, and Alla Manna. The latter contains a sap extract from the Manna Ash (Fraxinus ornus), which grows in Madonie, a nature reserve near Castelbuono. The dried sap contains mannite, a sugar substitute also used in pharmacology.

In future, Riggio plans further Ginseno variants, flavoured with Agrumi di Sicilia (oranges and mandarins), almonds and cactus fruit. All products are labelled "APLCEFALU" which refers to their origin: the town of Cefalù on the Northern coast of Sicily.

The trip to Carinthia to the World Spirits Award paid off: the bitter Ginseno alla Manna received a gold medal.